Wheying on My Mind

freshly salted cheese

Meredith wins the prize. I was, in fact, “making cheese or yoghurt,” more specifically cheese. I’m not exactly sure how to unite Meredith and her brownie, since she’s not local, and my brownies don’t ship well. I’ll see if I can figure something out. Anyway, the photo above is a closeup of some freshly salted Neufchatel.

Disclaimer:

Certain purists attacked me for my post on making yoghurt at home, arguing that it wasn’t “from scratch,” because I used a commercial yoghurt as a starter. So, in the interests of full disclosure, let it be known that the milk used in the following post was harvested from Purity’s well stocked dairy section, as was the buttermilk, as I do not have access to a cow, or to raw milk to culture into buttermilk. I left the dirty work of rennet processing to the Junket company, which kindly sells rennet in blisterpacked tabs. If you know how rennet is made, you should appreciate this, since if I processed it myself, I would post lots of revolting photos. So this cheese is not, technically, “from scratch,” but I’ll bet it’s more from scratch than any cheese you’ve eaten this week (unless you live on a farm).

Moving on.

For those of you who have never made cheese before, cheesemaking is an awesome and complicated process which is also tons of fun. I decided to make a very simple soft cheese, like the French Neufchatel (which is treated like cream cheese here, but it’s so much more). Basically, cheesemaking involves a couple of steps. First you need to culture some milk to get some happy bacteria going on (this isn’t always done). Then, you need to curdle it, coagulating the milk by raising the acid level, causing curds to form. Then, the cheese needs to be drained, to get rid of the whey. If you’re eating soft cheese, it’s pretty much done at this point, but it can also be packed and handled in a variety of way for hard cheeses, from cheddar to Parmesan. (Cheddaring is really fun; I may make cheddar sometime in the next year or so.)

So I started with a half gallon of milk, which I heated to room temperature and mixed with two tablespoons of buttermilk. The goal was to add some delicious tang and to start raising the acidity. Then I dissolved 1/8 of a rennet tablet in two tablespoons of water, and mixed it into the milk. Rennet, for those of you who refused to follow the link above, is an enzyme found in the stomachs of young mammals. It helps them to break down milk so that they can digest it. (There are ways to make vegetarian and vegan cheeses, and I may work on those later this year too, but since I haven’t made cheese in a long time, I wanted to stick with what I know.)

Next, the cheese has to hang out to coagulate at room temperature. Depending on the freshness of all of the ingredients, this can take only a few hours, but I was prepared for it to take overnight, as in fact it did. In the morning I tested for a clean break (photos didn’t come out, alas), and it was ready to roll, so I cut the curds, making the cheese easier to drain:

freshly cut curds

That watery liquid is whey. Whey is what we do not want, so:

draining curds

I poured the curds into a colander lined with cheesecloth to drain. They sat like this for a few hours, to get the bulk of the whey out, and I was astounded by how much whey there was. If I’d known there would be this much, I would have saved it and made ricotta. Next time.

Next, the ends of the cheesecloth get pulled together to make a little baggie, and squeezed to press the whey out. In Greece, we used to hang the baggie in the kitchen, the coolest room in the house, but in the interests of food safety* I hung it in the fridge:

bag of curds

More whey was generated. It fell into the glass bowl you can see at the bottom of the image. Note how plump and happy the bag looks. Over around 20 hours, it shrunk to this:

bag of cheese

I opened it up to check out the cheese inside:

cheese

Mmm. Cheese. At this point, the cheese is perfectly edible, soft and creamy and perhaps a bit sweet. However, to enhance the flavor and help it keep, it’s a good idea to salt your soft cheeses. So I turned it into a bowl, sprinkled a teaspoon of salt on it, and worked it for a few minutes to get the salt in before packing it into a tupperware for refrigeration.

cheese in a bowl

And that, my friends, is cheese. I am really pleased with how it turned out. The result is a very soft, creamy cheese which can be used in cheesecakes and frostings, or just eaten on bagels (assuming you have access to bagels that don’t taste like ass). Or plain in spoonfuls out of the dish. Whatever. I think I’ll be making this basic soft cheese a few more times, and then maybe experimenting with harder cured cheeses.

I certainly won’t be trying to make all my cheese at home, since I can’t make Parmesan and Brie and other fabulous cheeses at home. But this soft cheese is far superior to the stuff you can get in the supermarket, and a lot cheaper to make. And it’s fun. I highly enourage you to venture into the wide world of cheesemaking.
*A note on food safety. Cheese can be dangerous if it is not handled properly. I used pasteurized milk, which reduced the risk, and I also handled it carefully, using sterilized containers and so forth to avoid introducing bacteria. Cheese hangs out at room temperature a lot during the manufacturing process, and that’s a good temp for bacteria to grow. That’s why you want to get acid levels up quickly. However, there’s always a risk that your cheese will attract some visitors. If you make your own cheese and it smells/looks/feels/tastes funny, throw it away. It is always better to be safe than sorry, as you don’t want listeriosis and other unattractive diseases. You should also keep yourself/your kitchen/your cheese making tools as clean as possible. I bear no responsibility for repetitions of this recipe that go awry!

Book Forty-Nine: Roseanna

Another Martin Beck police mystery. This one is apparently the first in the series, so it filled in some background for me, and made me curious about reading the rest. Apparently there are 10 volumes in all, collectively called The Story of a Crime, and it sounds like they are quite popular in Sweden and in other corners of the world as well.

I can see why. They use interesting detective work and sudden leaps of logic which often turn out to be right. Beck seems to have an instinct for people, and a skill both at working with fellow policemen and with criminals. I also think it’s interesting that like Montalbano, another European detective, Beck resists and loathes the thought of promotion. He also lives a bit of a dog’s life, hounded (ha ha) by his wife and children, and preferring to focus on his police work above all else.

I did a bit of poking around on the authors, and found out that they are a husband and wife team who write alternating chapters. That explains the sometimes very different moods in the chapters; these differences are probably more marked in the original Swedish. I’ve always wanted to learn Swedish, maybe I have an excuse at last. Apparently the books were meant to illustrate the fact that Sweden does, in fact, have crime, and the authors intended the series to be a criticism of capitalism. I haven’t quite gotten that out of them yet, but to be fair I’ve only read two of the 10, and the series may develop slowly, much like the books themselves.

Both of the books I’ve read have had rather chilling and shocking plots, and I like that. No mucking about with run of the mill stuff here; the authors plunged right into pedophilia and sex maniacs.  I’m definitely going to order some of the others from the library so that I can gorge myself.

Demographics:

Roseanna, by Maj Sjöwall and Per Wahlöö.  Translated from the Swedish by Lois Roth. Published 1965, 212 pages. Fiction.

Book Forty-Eight: A Tale of Two Valleys

Everyone in Mendocino County needs to read this book. Immediately. It should be distributed along with voter information pamphlets, because it illustrates the complex issues involved in the growth and change of formerly rural communities. A Tale of Two Valleys  is an awesome depiction of wealth, greed, and short-sightedness.

The book is about the development of Napa and Sonoma, two California regions which are pretty well known, thanks to the fact that they have turned into tourists traps with multi-million dollar trophy houses, strip malls, and world-famous restaurants. This is already starting to happen here, and has been for some time, but this book is a powerful argument for not letting it happen, for putting a stop to it before it’s too late. I raced through this boo, because it felt so viscerally familiar to me, and because it inspired me.

One of the biggest issues of the book is unchecked growth, which is something the city of Fort Bragg is (not) dealing with right now. Watching the discussions of what’s going to happen to the mill site, I’m amazed by the complete lack of foresight and respect for history going on, and the tale of Sonoma’s fight to retain the community’s less developed character is inspiring. This book shows that people are thinking ahead, that people can fight development, if they organize.

The book also talks about the pricing out of locals in these regions, as yuppies move in and drive housing prices up, again mirroring what happens here. And about the issue of weekenders who only visit their homes a few times every year, not contributing to the community at all. It’s basically like reading a book about Mendocino County, honestly, with a few small substitutions.

Sure, the book gets a bit patronizing sometimes, and it romanticizes things a bit too much for my taste. But I still think it’s a pretty solid piece of commentary, and it would seem like other people agree. A Tale of Two Valleys attracted a great deal of attention when it was first published, as you might imagine. I tend to think that’s a good thing; if a book is controversial, it’s usually because it raises issue that people won’t face. And I think that people here really should read it, and hopefully take away a few sobering lessons about our future.

Demographics:

A Tale of Two Valleys, by Alan Deutschman. Published 2003, 221 pages. Sociology.

February Book Project Report

Well, February was certainly an action-packed month in the world of reading. If you’re new to the site and the Book Project, I am writing about every single book I read in 2008, with no exceptions, from academic tomes on genocide to silly mystery novels.

I am also welcoming reader suggestions on what to read, and will do my best to read every book which is recommended to me over the coming months. I figure it’s always interesting to see what other people are reading and into. People can also send me books*, should they so desire, and I will happily read and report back on them. (If desired, I can also send them back, or forward them on to others in a meandering web of book sharing goodness.)

At any rate, in February I read 26 books, and a total of 10,429 pages. I was apparently a more active reader during the month of February than I was in January, reading an average of 359.62 pages and .89 books a day. To be fair, a lot of those books were things like Inspector Montalbano novels, which don’t require as much firepower to read through. And also the days are growing longer, making me feel more lively, but not yet nice enough to lure me outside on a regular basis.

I read a lot of books last month, making it hard to pick a favourite. I think that This is the Way the World Ends takes the prize, ultimately. There were a lot of reasons to like it, but I think my penchant for apocalyptic fiction is reason enough. You should read it, if you haven’t already. World War Z comes in a close second, and I keep thinking about it, which is a good sign. I may return to it later this year.

I also read some pretty bad books. Some of them just weren’t my style, so I don’t really feel the need to bag on them yet again, but Tokyo Year Zero probably takes the cake. I also didn’t much care for The Nature of Monsters, and I think that it’s very telling that in both cases, what really put me off was cutesy narrative devices on the part of the author. I grew up in a household where that sort of thing is simply not tolerated.

I’m also pleased to note that my two favourite books this month were both recommendations, which I probably would never have read if someone hadn’t suggested them. (And the books I most hated were both plucked off the library shelves by me, showing how seductive a pretty cover can be.)

*Send books here:

s.e. smith

po box 2764

fort bragg, california, 95437

(if you feel so inclined. no pressure. really.)